Hanson at the Chelsea Restaurant

You walk into St Mary Street knowing you're after something that feels a bit special, and Hanson delivers without any of the pretension that can kill these places. The kitchen's doing seriously accomplished work here—think classical technique with enough finesse to remind you why you bothered getting dressed up. The dining room itself has that understated elegance that works because they're not trying too hard; dark wood, proper linens, the kind of place where you feel looked after but not fussed over. This is where Swansea comes when it actually wants to mark something, and the fact that nearly 400 people have rated it 4.7 says something about consistency.