Bear Kitchen

You'll find this polished spot holding down the fort on Westgate End, where the kitchen takes British cooking seriously without getting stuffy about it. The menu changes with the seasons, but expect dishes that show real technique – think carefully sourced meats, vegetables that actually taste of something, and puddings worth saving room for. The dining room strikes that tricky balance between smart enough for a celebration but relaxed enough for a Tuesday night dinner. Service is attentive without hovering, and they clearly know their way around a wine list. It's the sort of place that makes you wonder why you don't live closer to this end of town.